CLOSE COMBAT

Hand-to-hand combat should almost always be avoided. Given a zombie's

lack of speed, it is much easier to run (or walk quickly) than stand

and fight. However, it may be necessary to destroy a zombie at close

quarters. When this happens, split-second timing is critical. A wrong

move, a moment's hesitation, and you may feel cold hands gripping

your arm, or sharp, broken teeth biting into your flesh. For this reason

above all, choosing a close-combat weapon is more important than any

other in this section.

1. BLUDGEONS

When using a blunt weapon, the goal is to cmsh the brain (remember,

the only way to kill a zombie is by destroying its brain). This is not as

easy as it sounds. The human skull is one of the hardest, most durable

surfaces in nature. So, of course, is the zombie's.

Extreme force is needed to fracture, let alone shatter

it. However, this must be done, and done with a

single, well-placed blow. Missing your target or I'I

failing to breach the bone will leave you with no

second chance.

Sticks, ax handles, and other wooden clubs are

good for knocking a zombie out of the way or beating

off an individual attack. What they lack is the

weight and strength necessary 

for a lethal strike. A section of lead pipe will work

/I for a single encounter but is too heavy for those on

the move. A sledgehammer has the same drawback

and also requires practice for its user to hit a moving

target. Aluminum bats are light enough to work

for one, maybe two fights, but are known to bend

after prolonged use. The standard, one-handed carpenter's

hammer has striking power but severely

limited reach. Its short handle allows a zombie to

grab your arm and pull it in. The police baton, made of acetate plastic

(in most cases), is sbong enough for any battle but lacks the lethal

power for a one-blow kill. (Note: This was intended in its design.)

The best bludgeon is a steel crowbar. Its relatively

lightweight and durable construction makes it ideal

for prolonged close combat. Its curved, semisharpened

edge also allows for a stabbing motion

through the eye socket, directly into the brain case.

More than one survivor has reported killing zombies

in this manner. Another benefit of the crowbar is that

it may he necessary to pry open a door, shift a heavy

object, or perform other tasks for which it was originally

designed. None of these functions can be

accomplished with any of the previously mentioned items. Even

lighter and more durable than the steel crowbar is the titanium model,

now trickling into Western markets from Eastern Europe and the former

Soviet Union.

2. EDGED WEAPONS

Blades, in any form, have advantages and

disadvantages over bludgeons. Those

hat have enough strength to l i t the

skull rarely stand up after many repetitions.

For this reason, slicing, particularly

decapitation, serves almost the

same function as a head blow. (Note: The

severed head of a zombie is still able to

bite and must be regarded as a threat.)

The advantage of slicing over bludgeoning

is that it can make killing a zombie unnecesssuy. In some cases,

I simply chopping off a limb or severing the spine is enough to disable

! an undead assailant. (Note: Severing a limb also brings the possibility

of contact with the virus through the exposed area.)

The civilian ax can easily crnsh a zombie's skull, smashing through

bone and brain in one swing. Decapitation is equally easy, which is

why the ax has been the favored tool of executioners for centuries.

Connecting with a moving head, however, might be difficult.

Furthermore, if the swing ends in a total miss, you might be taken off

balance.

The smaller, one-handed hatchet is a good weapon of last resort. If

you find yourself cornered, and larger weapons are useless, a hatchet

blow will more than take care of an attacker.

The sword is the ideal edged weapon, but not every kind will suffice.

Foils, rapiers, and similar fencing weapons are not suited for slicing.

Their only possible use would be a direct stab through the eye

socket followed by a quick swirling action through the brain. This

motion, however, has been accomplished only once, by a Pained

I swordsman, and is therefore not recommended.

Single-handed long swords allow you a free hand for other tasks

such as opening a door or defending your body with a shield. Their

only drawback is the lack of swinging power. One arm may not have

the strength to slice through the thick cartilage between bones. Another

drawback is its user's notorious lack of accuracy. Scoring a flesh

wound anywhere on the body of a living opponent is one thing.

Making an exact, clean chop through the neck is something else altogether.

Double-handed swords could be considered the best in their class,

providing the strength and accuracy for perfect decapitation. Of this

type, the Japanese Samurai Katana ranks first. Its weight (three to five

pounds) is perfect for long-term conflicts, and its blade can sever the

toughest organic fiber.

In tight quarters, shorter blades hold the advantage. The Roman

Gladius is one choice, although combat-ready replicas are hard to find.

The Japanese Ninjite boasts a two-handed grip and, in genuine models,

renowned tempered steel. Both factors make it a superior weapon.

The common machete, because of its size, weight, and availability, is

probably your best choice. If possible, fmd the military type usually

sold a t h y surplus stores. Its steel tends to be of a higher quality, and

its blackened blade helps concealment at night.

3. MISCELLANEOUS HAND WEAPONS

Spears, pikes, and tridents serve to skewer a zombie, keeping it out of

reach but not necessarily scoring a kill. The chance of an eye-socket

stab is possible, hut remote. The medieval European halberd (an axspear

hybrid) may serve as a chopping weapon but, again, requires

great amounts of skill and practice to accomplish a decapitating blow.

Other than using them as bludgeons, or keeping your attacker at a distance,

these weapons serve little purpose.

Morning stars or "flails," a spiked ball chained to a rod, do basically

the same damage as a crowbar, albeit in a more dramatic way. The

owner swings the rod in a wide, circular motion, providing enough

momentum to bring the hall crashing through the skull of his or her

opponent. Using this weapon takes considerable skill, and it is therefore

not recommended.

The medieval European mace serves the same function as the standard

household hammer but without benefit of the latter's practical

uses. A mace cannot pry open a door or window, drive a chisel, or hammer

a nail. Attempting such an act could result in accidental injury.

Therefore, carry this medieval weapon only when no alternative is

available.

Knives are always useful, serving a variety of functions in a range

of situations. Unlike a hatchet, they can kill a zombie only when the

blade is stabbed through the temple, eye socket, or base of the skull.

On the flip side, knives almost always weigh less than hatchets and,

therefore, are better if you are on the move. When choosing a knife,

make sure the blade is no more than six inches long and always

smooth. Avoid serrated knives and saw-blade combinations found in

survival knives, as they tend to become lodged in their victims.

Imagine yourself stabbing one zombie through the temple and turning

to engage the other three ghouls but not being able to retrieve your

blade.

The trench spike is, without a doubt, the best compact anti-zombie

weapon on earth. It is a combination of a seven-inch steel spike for a

blade and brass knuckles for a handle. It was developed during the

vicious hand-to-hand combat of World War I, where soldiers killed

each other in trenches no wider than a few feet. Specifically, it was

designed to stab downward, through an enemy's steel helmet. Yon can

imagine how effective this weapon would be against a zombie. The

user could stab easily through a zombie's skull, withdraw cleanly and

quickly, then turn to either brain another zombie or, at the very least,

knock one over with a brass-knuckle punch to the face. Original models

are extremely rare, with barely a few remaining in museums and the

homes of private collectors. However, if accurate, detailed schematics

can be found, have one or perhaps two combat-ready, stress-tested

replicas made. They will be an investment you will never regret.

The Shaolin Spade

This weapon bears special mention in the anti-ghoul arsenal. It may

appear unconventional: a six-foot hardwood staff with a flat, bellshaped

blade on one end and an outward-facing crescent blade on the

other. Its roots date hack to a bronze-bladed agricultural tool used during

the Chinese Shang Dynasty (1766-1 122 B.C.E.). When Buddhism

migrated to China, the spade was adopted by Shaolin monks as both

tool and weapon. On several occasions, it has proven to be surprisingly

effective against the living dead. Thmstiug forward with either blade

will produce instant decapitation, while its length provides complete

safety for the user. This length does make it impractical for indoor

combat, and it should therefore be avoided in those situations. In open

spaces, however, nothing combines the safety of a spear with the

killing power of a katana sword like the Shaolin spade.

A variety of other hand weapons exist around the world, and space

does not permit the author to discuss each one individually. If you discover

an implement or tool that you think might make a good weapon,

ask yourself these questions:

1. Can it crush a skull in one blow?

2. If not, can it decapitate in said blow?

3. Is it easy to handle?

4. Is it light?

5. Is it durable?

Questions 3,4, and 5 will have to depend on your present situation.

Questions 1 and 2 are essential!

4. POWER TOOLS

Popular fiction has shown us the awesome, brutal power of the chainsaw.

Its lightning-quick, rotating teeth can easily slice through flesh

and bone, making the strength and skill required for manual weapons

unnecessary. Its roar might also give the owner a much-needed psychological

boost-empowerment in a situation where abject terror is

a given. How many horror movies have you seen in which this industrial

killing machine has spelled doom for anyone and anything it

touched? In reality, however, chainsaws and similar powered devices

rank extremely low on the list of practical zombie-killing weapons. For

starters, their fuel supply is finite. Once drained, they provide as much

protection as a hand-held stereo. Carrying extra fuel or power cells

leads to the second inherent problem: weight. The average chainsaw

weighs ten pounds, compared to a two-pound machete. Why increase

the chances of exhaustion? Safety must also be considered. One slip,

and the spinning teeth might be slicing through your skull just as easily

as your enemy's. L i e any machine, another problem is noise. A

chainsaw's distinctive roar, even if running for just a few seconds, will

be enough to broadcast to every zombie within earshot, "Dinner is

served!"